We drove from Otaio Gorge, past both Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki. The water in these lakes carries sediment from glacial erosion that turns the most magnificent blue when sunlight hits it. As you approach the tiny village of Aoraki / Mount Cook, the majestic Mount Cook comes into view, along with its surrounding mountains, adorned with hanging glaciers. The main attraction here is the scenery. Hermitage Hotel is the launch pad for many tours and activities like glacier boat rides and star gazing. The Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve is the largest in the southern hemisphere.

Because I had never seen a glacier in real life, we booked a boat outing through Hermitage Hotel to see New Zealand’s largest glacier, Tasman Glacier. We took a short bus ride and completed a short walk / hike to Tasman Lake’s boat dock where we boarded tiny boats and zipped around the lake, checking out icebergs and ultimately getting as close as permitted to the imposing Tasman Glacier. Our guide was very well-informed and shared simultaneously important and upsetting information about how quickly the glaciers are melting.

I would like to preface this description by saying that I read many reviews warning travelers about the overcrowded nature of this campsite. I was almost dissuaded from booking, but I wanted to stay in the village and didn’t want to splurge on a hotel, so we took a chance. We had an amazing time! It was busy, but we found a spot right next to an empty meadow with plenty of space to post up with our camping chairs and some wine to admire the beautiful hanging glacier directly overhead. There were flush toilets, sinks, and potable water. Plus, we met some of the nicest campers. We also saw, what we started calling, a “ground rainbow” – a rainbow that seems to be floating just feet above the ground.

Tip: Do not panic and grab the first spot at a campsite. Keep driving until you see one that makes you happy! Also, there are public showers in the village, but they are coin-operated so be sure to bring $2 coins if you plan to use them.

Make sure you have enough time to walk the Hooker Valley Track before you depart. The start is conveniently located at the entrance of White Horse Hill Campground. It’s an easy, 6-mile walk through dramatic scenery, mostly on a wooden platform and over a series of tall suspension bridges. Because it’s not very challenging and ends with spectacular views of Hooker Lake and its glacier, it is quite popular.