Start in Queenstown, end in Christchurch​

13 days | 12 nights​

1,500 miles | 34 hours total drive time | 2-3 hours drive time per day​

Weather: We visited the end of Jan / early Feb, which is New Zealand’s summer. The weather was generally comfortable with temperatures in the 70s and 80s (F), but given the country’s mercurial weather, expect it to change dramatically and quickly. It can get quite cold up in the mountains, on the water, and at nighttime, so be sure to pack layers. The best time to visit New Zealand varies based on preference, but generally Mar to May and Sep to Nov have nice weather and fewer crowds. ​

Highlights: Expect to see the most beautiful scenery of your lifetime. It’s almost too much at some points, like a constant screensaver but in reality. There are fjords, glaciers, glacial lakes, massive mountains, pristine beaches and coastlines, plains, rolling hills, farmland, rainbows, and lots of sheep (there are 5 sheep for every 1 New Zealander!). ​

Know before you go:​

• Make sure to stock up on food and gas when you pass through cities or towns. Once you enter the lesser-traveled parts of New Zealand, you won’t find grocery stores and gas stations on every corner.​
• Unlike in the US, not every campsite has dump and / or garbage stations, showers, and bathrooms. Make sure to take advantage of those when you come across them. Public showers are generally coin-operated, so keep $2 coins on you. Another difference to note is that camping spots are not numbered and you don’t book a designated location. You can post up wherever seems open. ​
• I read that New Zealand can get crowded during the summer months, but although some of the campsites were fairly full, it never felt overcrowded. Plus, the scenery is so gorgeous that you almost don’t notice. That being said, don’t panic and grab the first spot you see at a campsite – drive around a little until you find a spot that makes you happy.​
• Everything takes a little longer in an RV or campervan (especially on dirt roads), so make sure you leave extra time if you are planning activities or tours. ​
• Be prepared for 1-lane bridges. There are a lot of bridges in New Zealand since there is a lot of water to cross, but it is very rare to see one with 2 lanes. You will need to take turns. ​
• Be on the lookout for Keas, the world’s only alpine parrot, endemic to New Zealand’s South Island. They are beautiful but are not afraid of humans and love to chew on rubber. We love birds so were thrilled to see one land on the roof of our RV, until it tried chewing off our rubber sunroof covering.​
• Bring or buy bug spray! The sandflies are no joke. I am one of those rare, and very lucky, people who do not get bug bites, however they were out to get me too. ​
• Don’t beat yourself up if you decide to have a chill day and not see every single stop on your list. Just being in the fresh air of New Zealand is good for your soul. There’s no need to add stress. ​
• Don’t fret if you’ve never driven an RV or campervan before! It’s very easy to learn how to operate it, and the company you pick up from will give you a full rundown. You can also reach out to us if you have questions before you go.​

We camped in our RV at 12 different campsites throughout our trip. They were all pretty spectacular, and it was difficult to choose my favorites, but here we go!

For those who are not familiar, freedom camping is considered camping (with a tent or vehicle) on public land with minimal facilities. There is no cost, but you can only camp in designated areas and you must take the “leave no trace” philosophy seriously.

Although not listed here, one of our more unique stops was freedom camping in a ghost town! Read more about that here.

One of our coolest stops, by far, was Jackson Bay. Most people drive to Haast and go north from there to embark on the Great Coast Drive. Once you get to Haast, drive south. You will stumble across the quaintest fishing village with an interesting history and views of the ocean and Southern Alps.

There is a small freedom camping area, overlooking the water, that maybe fits 5 vehicles. We were lucky and got a spot. Wharekai-Te Kou Walk brings you through rainforest lushness, away from the bay, to the rocky shores of Ocean Beach. We did the walk around sunset and were the only 2 people on the beach. Read more about Jackson Bay here.

I have to preface my description by saying, the campsite may have been closed when we went, which likely contributed to us being the only 2 people there. There were signs about dropping poison for a predator control operation, but there were no closure signs, so we took our chances. It was also the last night of our RV trip, so I was feeling nostalgic.

This campsite is in Arthur’s Pass National Park and is a great starting point for many hikes and walks, but we decided to stay put and explore our immediate surroundings which were still pretty damn spectacular. We squeezed our RV into a quiet corner, right by the entrance to a woodsy path that led to a clearing with towering mountains framing its horizon. We also saw a couple of, what we started calling, “ground rainbows” – rainbows that seem to be floating just a few feet above the ground! There is also a Department of Conservation (DOC) hut where you can build fires if you so choose.

• Book on the DOC site in advance.

This was our first stop on our RV trip, and it did not disappoint. I had read that it’s tricky to get to and a bit off the beaten path, which it is, but it was worth it. It’s about 3 hours from Queenstown, and you will eventually hit a dirt road, but it’s well-maintained and easy to traverse. Although, you may stumble across a sheep crossing, which if that’s the case, keep driving slowly.

Drive all the way to the end of the road – it’s all beyond gorgeous, but it gets more private and scenic the further you go. You can park your RV or pitch your tent wherever there’s space. We got a spot right by the lake, where we posted up on some camping chairs and enjoyed the serenity.

• Book on the DOC site in advance.

Located off the Southern Scenic Route, Monkey Beach Island freedom camping is a hidden oasis. Like most of the best spots, it’s a bit of an adventure to get to, ending with a small dirt road that leads to a quiet beach. It’s not huge so was a bit crowded when we got there, but we pulled all the way to the end and felt like we were the only 2 people there.

We had a magnificent evening, running around the beach like kids, exploring the interesting topography, and becoming one with the seagulls. We also enjoyed one of the most spectacular sunsets I’ve ever seen.

I would like to preface this description by saying that I read many reviews warning travelers about the overcrowded nature of this campsite. I was almost dissuaded from booking, but I wanted to stay in the village, and didn’t want to splurge on a hotel, so we took a chance.

We had an amazing time! It was busy, but we found a spot right next to an empty meadow with plenty of space to post up with our camping chairs and some wine to admire the beautiful hanging glacier directly overhead. There were flush toilets, sinks, and potable water. Plus, we met some of the nicest campers. Read more about Aoraki / Mount Cook here.

• Book on the the DOC site in advance.

The journey to get to this campsite was beautiful – it led us through the South’s rolling hills, greenery, and farmland, and of course, ended with a dirt road. The campsite is right on the coast with dramatic cliffs leading down to the water. It was a little crowded, but we got a great spot with a direct view of the cliffs out the back of our RV. We took a lovely stroll down the beach in the morning.

• Book on the DOC site in advance.

New Zealand is filled to the brim with the cutest cafes that serve extremely fresh and vibrant meals. Here are a few of my favorites (in no particular order).

The Craypot (Jackson Bay): Even if you don’t end up freedom camping in Jackson Bay, it’s worth the drive for lunch at The Craypot. It’s a classic shack with delectable fish & chips, other fresh seafood choices, and, of course, unbeatable views. Read more about Jackson Bay here.

Monsoon Restaurant & Bar (Franz Josef): We cooked most of our dinners in our RV, but we decided to treat ourselves to dinner out while staying in Franz Josef. It’s more of a vacation town with bars and restaurants, and we thought it would be nice to see other people vs. just each other. The place had decent food, but it was the pool table, ski-lodge aesthetic, and new friends that made us enjoy this stop so much. We even ended up having a late-night party in our new friends’ souped-up campervan!

Black Shag Boutique Cafe (Invercargill): We needed to get some work and more trip planning done, so we researched a place with good food and WiFi. Black Shag is awesome – it’s a cozy spot with really delicious food and beverages. We ended up staying there for several hours, got a lot done, and indulged in many rounds of breakfast and snacks.

Mo’s Cafe (Wanaka): We grabbed some breakfast at Mo’s Cafe before driving the beautiful Haast Pass. It’s a quaint food truck that offers delicious toasties and pastries. The cheese scone and hot chocolate were divine.

Why do people travel to New Zealand? For the scenery! Every drive is beyond magnificent, but here are the ones that truly took my breath away.

The road to Milford Sound is one of the most beautiful roads I’ve ever driven. This is not a joke – it was so overwhelming that I got choked up. The only thing that may come close is Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park in Montana, but I think the road to Milford Sound has it beat.

It is literally chiseled through the mountains which makes you feel like a tiny speck in this giant bowl of nature. There are waterfalls, rivers, scenic openings, and endless fields to run around in. Read more about Doubtful Sound vs. Milford Sound here.

Although the Southern Scenic Route is not as well-traveled as the road to Milford Sound and the Great Coast Road, it covers the distance between Queenstown and DunedIn and offers wildlife viewing, short walks, lush rainforest, mountain vistas, and pristine beaches. My favorite stops along the route were the following (in no particular order):

• Demolition World: It is exactly as described – a spectacular, expansive world made entirely of junk. The owners also have a LOT of birds – chickens, ducks, and even peacocks that freely roam around.
• McLean Falls: There’s a short hike that leads to a stunning waterfall in Catlins Forest Park.
• Roaring Bay Penguins & Seals Observatory / Nugget Point Lighthouse: The highlight was Nugget Point Lighthouse – it’s a relatively short, easy walk from the parking area to a picturesque lighthouse perched right on the coast.

Haast Pass connects Wanaka to the West Coast and passes by Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka, which were created by glaciers. This was a typical route for Maori (indigenous Polynesian people) who journeyed west in search of pounamu (greenstone or jade), which you will see all over New Zealand. My favorite stops along the way were Fantail Falls, where we took a dip in the icy, refreshing water, and Thunder Creek Falls.

Here are a few more beautiful roads to add to your itinerary (in no particular order)!

• The Great Coast Road: a scenic drive along the west coast of the South Island
• Crown Range and Cardrona: the drive from Queenstown to Wanaka and the highest main road in New Zealand (I’m personally a little scarred by this route because we took it several times to try skydiving after getting rescheduled due to weather – more about that here.)
• The road to Aoraki / Mount Cook: running along the western coast of the milky-blue Lake Pukaki
• Arthur’s Pass: the highest pass over the Southern Alps connecting Canterbury and Westland
• Lindis Pass: connecting the Mackenzie Basin with Central Otago
• The Glenorchy-Queenstown Road: connecting Glenorchy to Queenstown with views of Lake Wakatipu and the Southern Alps